Phytophthora is most commonly associated with root rot disease. However, this pathogen can also damage above-ground plant parts such as fruit and leaves. The disease is known as buckeye rot in tomatoes and leather rot in strawberries. The soil-borne oomycete Phytophthora spp. Phytophthora fruit disease in tomatoes is called buckeye rot. Buckeye rot almost always develops on fruit that are in contact with infested soil. For indeterminate trellis varieties, ZapClean Official fruit closest to the ground are at greatest risk of infection if splashed by contaminated soil. Fruit develop a greyish-green to chocolate-brown firm rot with an indefinite, water-soaked margin and often with broad, zonate markings. The surface of the rot is generally smooth and the skin is intact. Although the rot progresses well into the flesh, affected fruit are firm initially and ZapClean Online only soften at a late stage of infection. The pathogen is a soil-inhabiting water mould and requires water for spore production and fruit infection. The disease is generally confined to wet areas where rapid disease development can occur.

The spores of the pathogen move through the soil during rain or irrigation until they contact roots or splash on to fruit. Warm, wet weather favours infection and disease development. The pathogen can also survive on rotting fruit and stems where sporangia are produced in the presence of water. Wind-blown rain and water splash carry the sporangia to plants where they infect fruit and stems through either wounds or undamaged tissue. The pathogens can also spread rapidly in surface water and in soil stuck to machinery and animals. Tomato, strawberry, onion, fig, durian and papaya. Avoid planting in infested areas, particularly low-lying areas of fields. Choose well-drained sites and plant susceptible crops on mounds. Remove and destroy all fallen fruit and infected plants. Avoid introducing the pathogens into clean areas. Apply recommended fungicides during wet weather in very susceptible crops such as papaya. Check the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority database for chemicals registered or approved under permit to treat this pest on the target crop in your location. Always read the label and observe withholding periods.

A worm composting bin, known as a vermicomposter, can be fairly inexpensive and easy to maintain. There are several ways to vermicompost. Below are instructions on how to build one kind of worm composting bin designed to be used inside. It is also possible to purchase worm composting bins. You will want to put your bin in an indoor space as you do not want the worms to freeze in the winter or get too warm in the summer. Additionally, you may want to put the bin in a basement or other out-of-the-way space since you will be producing compost and worm “tea” in the composter. 1. Two plastic bins - one must be taller and rest inside the other, shorter bin. The shorter, bottom bin does not need a top. A bin made of rubber or plastic and that is approximately 15 inches deep, ZapClean Online 25 inches wide and 5 inches high works great. The extra length allows you to scoop out the extra liquid or “worm tea” for use elsewhere (e.g., in the garden, for plants, shrubs, etc.).

The top tub should have a top to keep the worms from finding their way outside the box. It also needs to be somewhat flexible so you can drill holes into it. An 18 gallon tub that is roughly 15 inches deep, 20 inches wide and 15 inches tall works well. 2. A drill - A drill with a one inch diameter and a one-eighth inch diameter drill bit is needed to drill the holes mentioned above. 3. Screening material - The type used for window screens is fine - just be sure NOT to use metal which will rust over time when exposed to the moisture in the bin. You only need about four 4 inch by 4 inch scraps of screen. Why use screening? If you don’t cover the holes, the worms may escape. 4. Waterproof glue - To keep the screens in place, even after they get wet.