Onwards

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A close-coupled cistern bolts directly onto the back of the pan with no visible pipework between the two. Because the outlet on the cistern base sits directly above the inlet on the pan, the flush valve or siphon needs a shorter outlet and often a rubber doughnut washer to seal the joint rather than a length of pipe. Fill valves on close-coupled units tend to be shorter in the body too, since there is less depth inside a compact tank.

Measuring before ordering saves a return trip: the thread diameter of the existing lever body, the distance from the lever mounting to the flush valve connection point, and whether the arm needs to sit above or below the water line all affect which replacement will actually fit. A lever bought to the wrong thread size will not seal against the cistern wall, however well the rest of the job goes.

Fixing centres, meaning the distance between the two mounting holes in the pan, is the measurement that actually determines whether a seat will fit at all, and it varies enough between manufacturers that assuming a standard spacing is a common source of returned parts. The two most frequently seen spacings in the UK are around 140mm to 145mm and 160mm to 165mm centre to centre, and a seat bought for the wrong spacing simply will not sit over both holes.

The lever type matters too. Close-coupled cisterns almost always use a side lever or a push button through the lid, while older low-level suites more often run a side lever connected by an external link arm. Ordering a replacement lever without checking which type is fitted is a common cause of parts being sent back.

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Start with the fill valve. This is the mechanism that lets water into the cistern after a flush and shuts off once the tank reaches the correct level, usually via a float or a diaphragm. When a fill valve wears, the most common signs are a hissing or trickling noise that continues long after the cistern should have stopped filling, a water level creeping up to or past the overflow pipe, or a float arm that no longer rises high enough to trigger shut-off. Mineral deposits inside the valve seat are often the culprit, particularly in hard water areas, and once the seal degrades a full replacement is usually more reliable than trying to clean it out.